The multi-award-winning Momofuku is one of New York’s hippest restaurants. To continue its recipe for success in Sydney, executive chef and founder David Chang appointed a very special cook as his chef de cuisine: Ben Greeno. But instead of copying the entire New York concept, Greeno only applies aspects of the Momofuku philosophy to Australia’s rich f lora and fauna, achieving remarkable results for such a location.
Momofuku is the name of a highly acclaimed chain of restaurants owned by David Chang. The internationally celebrated chef created a new genre of restaurants with his casual restaurant concepts with high quality food and affordable prices.
The New York Momofuku restaurants have already attracted global attention for their innovative approach to food and service as well as their focus on sustainable and regional agriculture. Culinary pleasure is firmly embedded in a comprehensive concept: much more than other top kitchens, the Momofuku restaurants combine serious, sometimes challenging food with an extremely laid-back and spontaneous dinner ethos.
Greeno now has the task of implementing this concept in the first Momofuku restaurant outside of New York, namely in Sydney, Australia. The native Englishman appears to be the perfect man for the job: before taking over the reins at the new Momofuku Seiõbo in Sydney in 2011, he had already cooked at all the New York restaurants, fully immersing himself in the chain’s philosophy.
Before that, Greeno had also spent a lot of time in European kitchens, working at the two-star Noma restaurant (twice) and the award-winning The Paul in Copenhagen, at Grand Hôtel d’Uriage in France and at Sat Bains in the English city of Nottingham.
Greeno played a key role in setting up the Australian offshoot Momofuku Seiõbo in Sydney, for the aim was not just to open another Momofuku restaurant but to adapt David Chang’s idea to faraway Australia. The meticulous attention to detail, the interpretation of local flavours and produce, that is precisely what makes Sydney so exciting and challenging to Greeno. The unfamiliar produce and the effects of the different seasons open up a host of new possibilities for his culinary creations. Australian food culture suits him in this sense, as the people here are very interested in cuisine and always open to trying new things.
The interior of Momofuku Seiõbo doesn’t conform to ordinary conventions, either: an open, stainless-steel kitchen surrounded by a counter with box seats for the curious guests. This, combined with the atmospheric lighting, loud rock music and huge demand for reservations (made via the online booking system), has helped paint a cool and exclusive picture of the restaurant. Greeno and his cooks serve the food themselves and explain each dish in detail, leaving the waiters to concentrate on the list of predominantly biodynamic wines.
Greeno also makes eager use of Australia’s natural pantry, which enables him to create a contemporary cuisine with a very special Australian twist. Some examples of his flavors are his pink snapper sashimi with pickled celery and mustard oil, or his potato, mullet roe, parson’s nose – a dish consisting of crisp-fried potato balls, fried chicken, pops of mullet roe, sprigs of fresh watercress and sweet Australian quadong.
In Momofuku Seiõbo’s very first year, Greeno’s successful cuisine helped earn it the title of “Best New Restaurant” from the renowned Gourmet Traveller’s magazine. It was then named “Best Restaurant” the following year.
Momofuku Seiõbo is also included on the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
Throughout the month of August, Ben Greeno will be presenting his unique interpretation of Momofuku Seiõbo from the kitchen of Hangar-7′s Restaurant Ikarus in Salzburg – not just to fans of the Momofuku restaurants but to anyone wishing to try his fascinating creations.
Text: Hangar 7
Photos: Helge Kirchberger
